여행기/경험 170316 Go West, 캘리포니아를 향해서...대륙횡단기차여행(3)
2017.07.19 20:55
March 16 Thursday 2017 /
기차여행 마지막 날이다
어제 저녁 식사는 그린리버를 지날때 쯤 먹었다. 그때는 몰랐었다. 그린리버란 마을이 아치스국립공원하고 그렇게 가까울 줄을 말이다. 나중에 그랜드 서클을 하면서 마지마 아치스에서 브라이스로 출발할 때 이 그린리버를 지나갔었는데... 이때는 몰랐었던 것이다 . 제일 멀고 접근하기 어려운 곳이라지만 의외로 가까운 곳에 대중 교통 역이 있다니.. 하지만 연계 교통은 쉽지 않을 듯하다. 기차는 모압사막의 언저리를 따라 북쪽으로 계속 올라가서 솔트레이크를 향한다.
처음 미국 여행을 계획할 때 들어 있었던 나이아가라, 요세미티, 엘로우스톤... 이 셋은 모두 3월까지도 추운 날씨 탓에 갈 수 없는 곳들이라 계획에서 지워진 곳들이다. 옐로스톤은 꼭 가보고 싶었는데, 엘로스톤 국립공원을 가려면 여기 솔트레이크를 들려서 가야만 했다. 솔트레이크에서 암트랙을 내려서 자동차를 렌트해서 엘로스톤에 다녀온다 가 계획이었는데.. 암트랙은 하루 한 대 뿐이고 솔트레이크 통과시각은 밤 12시경이고.... 엘로스톤은 비지터센터 근방 하나만 겨우 볼 수 있고... 해서 무산된 곳이다.
이름처럼 짠 소금이 깔려있는 아주 먼 옛날 바다였던 곳이라고 하는 곳인데. 도시 근교 사막지대에서도 물가의 소금 대스벨리처럼 보였다. 한 밤중이지만 솔트레이크에서도 한 참을 정차하고 손님 몇몇은 새로 타고 내린다.
아침 일찍 잠에서 깨어나 시계를 보니 5시 그런데 핸드폰은 네시다. 또 시간대가 바뀌어서 태평양시간으로 바뀐것이다. GPS를 본다. 밀시티 근방을 지나고 있고 왼쪽으로는 3000미터급 스타피크 준봉들일 듯한 산들이 보인다. 차창밖 풍경은 눈덮인 삼림으로 바뀌었다 중간에 스키장도 있었다. 이박삼일동안 너무 편하게 쉰 셈이다 이제 기차는 작은 라스베가스와 비슷한 리노에 머지 않아 도착할 것이다.
시에라네바다 고원지대에 가까이 가면서 풍광은 점점 푸르러 지기 시작한다.
1. 일출 나무전주 2-3 아침식사
4. 돔카 5. I-80 하이웨이 6. 소금물
7. 내염 관목들 8.트러키 강 9.리노
아침 일찍 일어나서 준비하고 있다가 아침 식사하러 다이닝 카로 갔다. 이제는 제법 익숙하다. 식사 주문시 음료로 주스나 밀크 커피등을 주문하는데 돌고 돌아서 생수가 제일로 좋았다. 승객은 거의 나이 든 사람들이고 간간이 젊은이 들이 껴 있기도 하다. 아침을 먹고 커피 한잔을 들고 전망차로 가서 다시 황량한 들판을 바라 본다. 처음엔 전망차에 침대석 손님들만 있었는데 카페테리아에 오가던 코치석 손님들까지 앉기 시작하여 빈자리가 별로 없을 정도였다. 기차는 네바다주의 북부지역 사막지대를 통과하는 중이다. 산의 있으되 나무는 한 그루도 없는 산들과 거친 들판에서 모진 생명력으로 살아가는 가시 덤불들 뿐이다 물이 없으면 생명도 없는 법이다.
한 참을 가다보니 철로 옆으로 비포장 도로가 있고 그 옆으로 저지대에 우리네 논처럼 얕은 습지들에 물이 고여 있었다. 설마 아니겠지만 물가엔 마치 소금기가 말라 하얀색으로 반짝이는 듯 해서 괴이한 생각이 들었다. 혹시 데스벨리의 그것처럼 소금호수의 잔재...
좁은 계류가 점점 커지면서 제법 물줄기가 커지더니 간만에 도시가 나타난다. 르노(Reno)였다. 물이 있어야 도시도 생명력을 갖는다. . 라스베가스 처럼 카지노와 아울렛이 있는 곳이다.
1. 세크라멘토 역 2. Donner Lake 3.캘리포니아 엘미라 근처
4-5 베니치아 Benicia 6. Benicia-Martinez Bridge
7. Martinez 역 8. 주변풍경 9. 암트랙 기차 내부
기차가 고도를 점점 높이면서 삼림속으로 올라간다. 고도 탓인지 눈이 제법 많이 쌓여 있는데 오른쪽 아래로 넓은 호수가 보인다. 보카 저수지Boca Reservoir 를 지나서 내려간다. 이제 네바다 사막지대는 다 지나고 캘리포니아에 온 것이다.
지나는 풍광이 완전히 다르다. 붉은색 바위산과 건조한 사막지대에서 이젠 사방이 푸르른 녹색으로 바뀌었다.
점심에 앞자리에 합석했던 미국인 부부는 부인이 더 활동적이었다. 여행을 자주 하고 중국 항저우인가에 딸이 영어선생으로 있어 자주 간다고 했다. 또 사업차 서부지역으로 자주 출장을 간다고 하며 내내 즐겁게 이야기를 하곤 했고. 식사후에 객실로 돌아가다가 복도에서 만났는데 자기네 객실로 오라고 해서 들어갔다. 패밀리 룸이라 객실이 제법 크고 화장실까지 있는 한 클라스 위 객실이었다. 여행 이야기와 손녀이야기를 하다가 스마트 폰으로 사진을 보여주면서 묻기에 나도 우리 손녀 사진을 보여주었더니 이쁘다며 귀여워 한다. 여행지 사진을 나는 유튜브에 올려놓은 동영상을 보여 주었더니 멋있다며 감탄해 한다. 너무 오래 있어 페가 되는 것 같아 적당한 때를 잡아 나왔다. 여행은 이렇게 모르는 사람들과 어눌한 언어로 도 대화가 통하게 만든다. 기차는 캘리포니아 내륙의 중심지인 세크라멘토Sacramento 에 도착해서 잠시 정차한다. 일부 승객들이 내리고 또 올라 타곤 한다. 점심에 만났던 이들도 여기서 내린다. 무거운 짐을 들고 내리기에 내가 짐을 들어서 1층으로 내린후에 다시 플랫폼까지 내려주고 손을 흔들어 인사를 했다.
새크라멘토 교외를 지나면서 부터는 끝없이 펼쳐지는 푸른 농경지들이 펼쳐진다. 캘리포니아의 풍부한 농산물들이 이 곳에서 무한 생산되여 전세계적으로 유통되는 곳이라고 생각되는 곳이다. 과수를 심은 곳을 지나며 보니 아마 아몬드 나무 같은데 미국에 가면 아몬드가 굉장히 쌀 줄 알았는데 우리 만큼이나 비쌌다. 비싸게 산 아몬드를 워싱턴 국회의사당 들어가면서 모두 버리고 아까워 했었는데. 중간에 코스트코에 가서 1키로 쯤 되는 커다란 아몬드 한 봉지르 사서는 여행 내내 군입거리로 잘 이용했었다.
1. Benicia-Martinez Bridge 2-3.세크라멘토 부근 농경지들
4. Richmond 통과중 5-6 에머리빌Emeryville
7. 에머리빌 역 8-9. 베이브릿지
이제 얼마 안가서 태평양, 샌프란시스코에 도착할 것이라 생각하며 짐을 주섬주섬 싸기 시작했다. 매일 아침에 차장이 침대를 정리해주고 시트를 갈아주곤 하는데 짐 싸기 귀챦아서 됐다고 하고 이틀을 그냥 지냈는데 점심하고 와보니 어느새 새 시트로 모두 갈아 놓았다.
어느 순간 드디어 샌프란시스코인가 하고 창밖에 펼쳐지는 바다와 군함을 보고 생각했는데 주변을 보니 아직 시골이었다. 샌프란시스코 만의 깊숙이 안쪽 기다란 철교를 지나면서 평행한 다리 Benicia-Martinez Bridge 를 바라 본다. 주위는 얕은 습지처럼도 보였다. 암트랙역인 Martinez 에 잠시 정차했다가 마지막 종착지인 에머리빌을 향해서 출발한다.
샌프란시스코에는 기차역이 없어서 암트랙은 에머리빌이나 오클랜드에서 하차해서 암트랙 연결버스로 샌프란시스코 다운타운의 정류장들로 이동하게 되여있다. 샌프란시스코에서 암트랙을 탈때도 마찬가지로 버스로 나와서 기차를 갈아타야 한다.
드디어 51시간에 걸친 대륙횡단열차 캘리포니아제퍼호의 종착역인 에머리빌Emeryville Station 이다. 어제 저녁인가에 합석해서 식사했던 목이 아파서 목소리가 안 좋다던 거구의 남자는 기타를 등에 메고 내렸다. 식사를 하면서 이야기를 하다가 미국의 팁문화가 제일 어렵다고 하면서 암트랙 다이닝에서는 어느 정도를 내야하는지 물어 봣더니 여긴 승차권에 모두 포함된 것이라 안내도 괞챤지만 1불 정도는 낸다고 해서 둘이 2달러를 내고 온 적이 있었는데.. 옆사람과 이야기를 하는 것을 보니 아마 로컬에서 노래하는 가수인 듯 싶었다..
1. 스마트폰의 뮤니패스 2. 38번 버스 3. 유니온파크 앞
4-5, 유니온파크 6. 메이시스백화점
7. 쇼핑몰 Crocker Galleria 8.유니온파크의 하트 9. Geary St
에머리빌에서 버스를 타고 40여분 더 가야 샌프란시스코다. 시카고에서 기차에 오르고 나서 방심했던 마음이 다시 긴장모드로 바뀐다. 새로운 여행지에서 첫번째 관문은 호텔까지 무사히 도착하는 것이다.
샌프란시스코는 지역교통시스템이 제일 잘되여 있었다. 일단 대중교통인 뮤니시스템은 버스와 지하철 그리고 케이블카를 망라하는데 뮤니앱을 통해서 스마트폰으로 티켓을 구입해서 사용할 수 있었다. 일단 2장을 구입해서 2인용으로 처리해서 내 스마트폰에 저장해 놓았다. 샌프란시스코의 골든게이트의 명성에 눌려 있지만 실제 통행량은 더 많을 베이브릿지를 건넌다. 멀리 금문교가 보이고 중간에 트레져아일랜드를 지나서 드디어 샌프란시스코 다운타운의 고층빌딩숲이다. 그속으로 턴해서 첫번째 경유지인 버스터미널Transbay Temporary Terminal Station에 도착하고 우리는 내렸다. 시내 보다 여기 종점에서 출발하는 버스가 편리할 것 같아서이다. 38이나 급행인 38R을 타고 Van Ness Ave 에서 하차하면 되는데 유니온파크를 지나 얼마 안가서 잘못 내리는 바람에 한 정거장은 걸어가야 했다. 샌프란시스코는 언덕의 도시라 곳곳이 언덕 길인데 캐리어를 끌고 천천이 주변 상가들 구경하면서 호텔OPAL을 향해서 걸었다. 눈에 띠는 것은 리큐어 마트들이다. 샌프란시스코가 음주량으로 세계최고라는 이야기를 얼핏 들은 듯한데 리큐어상점만 봐도 이해가 되었다. 길건너에 노숙자들이 떼로 모여있어 안해가 많이 신경을 쓴다.
유니온파크에서 게어리스트리트를 걸어서 반네스 대로와 만나는 로터리 코너에 호텔이 있었고 바로 앞이 버스스탑인데... 그래도 괜한 걸음을 한 것은 아니었다. 본의 아니지만 다른 도시처럼 호텔까지 걸으면서 눈동냥을 한게 적지 않았다..
체크인을 하면서 조용한 방을 원한다고 했더니 3층인데 낮에는 공사장 소음이 있지만 밤에는 조용하다고 해서 그리로 정했다. 고풍스런 넓다란 로비가 있고 옆에 식당이 있었다. 미국여행을 하면서 제일 편했던 것은 그 많은 화장실이 모두 무료라는 것과 호텔로비에서 커피도 얼마든지 공짜였어다는 것이다..
일단 짐을 풀고 올라오던 게어리스트리트를 다시 걸어 내려가서 샌프란시스코의 중심인 유니온파크에 갔다. 필라델피아이 LOVE 상이 유명하다면 샌프란시스코는 여기의 하트상인데 안해는 좀 흉하다고 하며 찍지말라하니 서로 생각이 그리 다른 모양이다. 공원앞에 메이시스백화점과 옆으로 애플전시장이 있었다. 다운타운으로 들어가 마켓스트리트까지 둘러본 후에 다시 게어리스트리트로 해서 호텔로 돌아왔다.
상상이 현실로 되어 가는 중이다. 뉴욕이 그러했고 대륙횡단 열차에 이어 샌프란시스코다.
GRAND JUNCTION (1311 mi.) is located where the Gunnison and
Colorado Rivers join. Prior to 1921, this part of the Colorado River was
known as the Grand River--thus Grand Junction. The city is surrounded
by the mountains of the Colorado National Monument. Powderhorn
Ski Resort sits on the east side of the Grand Mesa, the blue mountain
to the east, which is one of the world’s largest flat top mountains. The
nearby Country Jam Ranch is a permanent music festival site that hosts
Country Jam that draws thousands of country music fans to the area
each year.
Mack (1330 mi.) After the California Zephyr passes through the last
town in Colorado, it turns southward, passes under I-70 and makes
its way back toward the Colorado River and Ruby Canyon, a popular
destination for rafting, which takes its name from the red sandstone
cliffs lining the Canyon walls. Erosion via wind and water has hewn
smooth textures and fascinating shapes in the striking red stone over
eons of time. The canyon runs for 25 miles through Colorado and Utah.
Colorado/Utah State Line
A sign marking the state line was painted by railroaders on the canyon
wall on the right.
About five miles after passing through Ruby Canyon we get our final
glimpse of the Colorado River on the left.
Thompson Springs (1390 mi.) In 1985 Thompson went back to the
future and re-adopted the town’s original name, Thompson Springs. The
area south of town is rich in uranium deposits.
GREEN RIVER (1417 mi.) sits at 4,078 ft. elevation, the lowest
point between Salt Lake City and Denver. It is a popular spot for
“freeride” mountain biking. On the left are Marvine and Thousand Lake
Mountains. Remain on the alert for herds of the apocryphal jackalope,
hare-like antlered creatures said to appear without warning in these
parts.
Price (1481 mi.) may have a population of only 8,400, but it’s the
largest town since leaving Grand Junction. It is home to the Utah State
University-College of Eastern Utah and a large prehistoric museum. The
Book Cliffs on the right extend back into Colorado and offer evidence
that everything to the south of here was once under water.
HELPER (1488 mi.) The town name comes from the railroading
activity that took place here for years--adding “helper” engines to
westbound freight trains so they can get up the Wasatch Plateau
to Soldier Summit. Mining has always been the other key economic
activity here, and there is said to be enough local coal to meet the
country’s needs for almost three centuries. It’s not surprising then that
the city hosts the Western Mining and Railroad Museum.
Castle Gate (1492 mi.) is a former mining town dismantled in 1974.
Its rock formation seems to open like a giant castle gate as the train
approaches and closes as it leaves. Butch Cassidy is said to have held
up the Pleasant Valley Coal Company here for $7,000 in gold in 1897.
From here to Soldier Summit the California Zephyr will follow the Price
River up the Wasatch Range.
Soldier Summit (1513 mi.) at 7,000 feet elevation is named for the civil
war soldiers buried here in 1860. This area is a favorite train watching
spot for railfans, so don’t be surprised if you see them with cameras
ready to photograph the California Zephyr as we reach the top of the
Wasatch Plateau. After we pass the summit, we’ll start heading down
thru Spanish Fork Canyon and negotiate a series of switchbacks called
the Gilluly Loops.
Thistle (1542 mi.) is a recent ghost town, caused by a 1983 mudslide
that moved part of a mountain, blocked two creeks and formed an
earthen dam. Water from the creeks backed up and flooded the town.
The landslide also closed the railroad for months. Thistle’s remains, afew rooftops, can be seen on the left side of the train after emerging
from the tunnel which was part of the relocation of the railroad
following the disaster. The incident was the first ever federal disaster
area declared in the state of Utah.
PROVO (1563 mi.), the third largest city in Utah, hosts Brigham
Young University and the largest missionary training center for the
Mormon Church. The Wasatch Range “Y Mountain” towers over the
city; the letter was built to commemorate the university. Provo is home
to software company Novell, Inc., which has helped make technology
and software an important industry in the Utah Valley area. Provo is
also home to the Osmond family of entertainers. Stephen Covey, the
famous author of The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People, also resides
in Provo. Just outside of Provo is the entrance to the Uinta and Manti-
La Sal National Forests.
SALT LAKE CITY (1608 mi.) is the world headquarters of the
Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, founded in 1847 by a
group of Mormon pioneers led by Brigham Young. Temple Square in
the heart of downtown houses the six-towered Mormon Temple. The
church’s world renowned genealogical research facility brings people
from all over the world researching their family tree. Mining and
the first transcontinental railroad brought initial economic growth.
Today’s economy is primarily service oriented around government,
transportation, technology, utilities and professional and business
services. In recent years the area has developed both a light rail system
(TRAX) for the immediate Salt Lake City area, and a commuter rail
system (Front Runner) that links the city to Ogden on the north and
Provo on the south. The valley in which the city lies is considered one
of the safest and most attractive natural settings in North America.
Utah/Nevada State Line
Change your watch from Mountain to Pacific Time: one hour back if
westbound, one hour ahead if eastbound.
ELKO (1871 mi.) was founded in 1869 as a town along the just
completed transcontinental railroad. Once dubbed “the last real cow
town in the American West,” the city still is a ranching center with
western roots, but now also relies on tourism since the opening of the
Red Lion Casino. The town hosts the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering
festival each January and the National Basque Festival every July. A
stuffed 10-foot tall polar bear graces the Commercial Casino.
WINNEMUCCA (2013 mi.) You know you’re in a western town when
October brings the National Senior Pro Rodeo Finals, the Ranch Hand
Rodeo Weekend is held in February, the Winnemucca Mule show in
June, and barrel races in August. And if western events are not what
you’re looking for, try the Run-A-Mucca Motorcycle Rally in May.
Indeed, the town’s motto may hit the nail on the head: “Winnemucca,
NV. There’s more than meets the eye.”
Lovelock (2086 mi.) The area around this town was considered the
most difficult of the entire journey by the Pony Express riders and
by those who traveled west by covered wagon in the days before
the transcontinental railroad. The Humboldt River which meanders
across the desert between the Trinity Mountains on the right and the
Humboldt Range on the left, would disappear into the sand leaving
water that was full of minerals and barely drinkable. Lovelock’s
economy today is largely agricultural, producing bananas and alfalfa.
Fernley (2154 mi.) The first sign that you’ve left the open spaces of
the west and are nearing the Reno/Sparks metro area is this suburb
of new homes on the left. This town is best known as the home of a
750,000 square foot distribution center for Amazon.com. From here
the California Zephyr begins following the Truckee River.
Sparks (2199 mi.) is, for all practical purposes, a twin city with Reno.
The Southern Pacific built a switching yard here in 1904 which
spurred population growth. A number of casinos also contributed to
Sparks’ growth and then in the 1970s favorable taxation resulted
in an expansion of warehousing and distribution industry. The most
significant Sparks casino, the Nugget, is on the right side.
RENO (2202 mi.) “The Biggest Little City in the World” began as a
modest gold mining service settlement which grew after the discovery
of silver in 1859. Tailor Jacob Davis came to Reno in 1868 and began
to use rivets to secure the pockets of his men’s trousers. Worried that
the idea would be copied, he contacted Levi Strauss to apply and pay
for a patent, which was granted in 1873. As mining waned in the
1900s, Nevada legalized casino gambling in 1931 and passed liberal
divorce laws, both boons for Reno. An antique car collection and major
entertainers entice gamblers to Reno today, along with special events
all year.
Verdi (2213 mi.) The site of the first train robbery in the West in 1870.
There is now a hydroelectric generator powered by a water flume – a
wooden trough that collects water at four sites in the mountains.
Nevada/California State Line (2217 mi.)
The state line is indicated by a small marker on your right.
Floriston (2223 mi.) Here rainbow trout, brook trout and German
browns travel up and down the Truckee River to and from Verdi by
means of a fish ladder.
Boca (2229 mi.) in its heyday produced lumber, but the town was
dismantled in the 1920s after the sawmill closed. All that remains are
a bridge and a dam on the right. The oddly shaped rock formations
resembling castle spires that you now see were developed through
erosion by wind and water and are known as “Hoodoo Pillars.”
TRUCKEE (2237 mi.) was named after a Paiute chief, Trukizo, father
of Chief Winnemucca. The first settlers encountered his tribe with the
friendly chief yelling “Tro-kay” at them, the Paiute word for “hello.”
Note the renovated former Bank of America on the left side of the train,
now “The Bar of America,” a popular downtown restaurant.
Stanford Flats (2243 mi.) We now cross back and forth across a series
of ascending plateaus as we begin the climb over Donner Pass to the
peak of the Sierras. Below is a panoramic view of the Truckee Basin.
Donner Lake (2245 mi.) on the right side of the train is where the
famed Donner Party, traveling west from Illinois, was stranded during
the winter of 1846-47. Some of the party of 87 resorted to cannibalism;
only 48 survived. After passing the lake, the California Zephyr passes
through a series of snow sheds that protect the track from being
blocked by the more than 30 feet of snow that falls in the typical
winter.
Mt. Judah (2248 mi.) We enter a tunnel through Mt. Judah some 7,000
feet above sea level, the peak point of our climb across the Sierras.
When we emerge, a ski lift from the adjacent Sugar Bowl Ski Resort
carries skiers over the track. The resort closed during World War II
for fear the Germans might blow up the tunnel and block this key
transcontinental rail route.
Norden (2252 mi.) was once the site of a Southern Pacific turntable and
maintenance point. It is marked by another snow shed.
Soda Springs (2255 mi.) As we reach Lake Van Norden on the left,
watch for Castle Peak on the right, a mountain with a rock formation
that looks like a castle on top. After Lake Van Norden is the Soda
Springs Ski Resort on the left. About 12 miles west of here is where
the Southern Pacific’s City of San Francisco streamliner, with 226
passengers aboard, got stuck for three days in a raging blizzard in
1952.
Emigrant Gap (2273 mi.) As we cross Interstate 80, look for a gap in
the ridge on the California Trail as it crosses the Sierra Nevada, west of
Donner Pass. The cliffs here are so steep that 1840’s pioneers crossing
to California were said to have lowered their wagons on ropes in order
to continue.
American River Canyon (2279 mi.) on the left side of the train is the
valley of the North Folk of the American River, located 1,500 to 2,000
feet below track level.
Cape Horn (2298 mi.) is a rocky bluff on the left side of the train some
1,500 feet above the American River. The slope from here down to
Colfax is the steepest on the Zephyr’s route. In this direction we’re
going the easy way--downhill as we complete our crossing of the
Sierras.
COLFAX (2301 mi.) was named for Schuyler Colfax, seventeenth Vice
President of the United States under the Ulysses S. Grant administration
between 1869 and 1873. A statue at the station showing a prospector
panning for gold during the Gold Rush days of the 1850s is featured
immediately off Main Street, a charming section of town that can be
seen on the right.
Auburn (2319 mi.) This is the heart of “Gold Rush” country. Just south
of town is Sutter’s Mill, where gold was discovered setting off an influx
of fortune seeking “49ers” (not the football variety) in the mid-1800s.
Claude Chana, a young Frenchman who had come by wagon train to
California, is said to have panned for gold and made his discovery
on May 16, 1848, in what became known as the Auburn Ravine. A
45-ton statue commemorating the event stands downtown. (James
Wilson Marshall’s discovery five months earlier on the American River
had set the stage for the gold rush. Forced off of his own land, he
sadly never profited from his discovery.) Several museums including
the Gold County Museum, Bernhard Museum and the Placer County
(Courthouse) Museum will tell you everything you ever wanted to know
about the Gold Rush, except where to find your own gold! The Amtrak
Auburn station is the easternmost terminus for the Capitol Corridor®
trains.
ROSEVILLE (2336 mi.) Settled by prospectors who had come to
California looking for gold, the town was originally a stagecoach
station but soon became a stop on the transcontinental railroad. In
the 1900s the Southern Pacific opened a major switchyard here which
turned Roseville into a rail town. Now part of the Union Pacific, we’ll
pass those yards after we leave the station. Today the city features a
diverse array of businesses, including one of the largest auto malls in
the U.S. Like many California cities it actively encourages transportation
alternatives to the automobile and now offers residents over 100 miles
of bicycle routes to get around.
SACRAMENTO (2353 mi.) was first settled in 1839. The city grew
significantly during the California Gold Rush, and in 1854 became
California’s capital. Sacramento was the western terminus for the Pony
Express, and was the starting point for eastbound construction to meet
the westbound track of the first transcontinental railroad at Promontory
Summit, Utah, in 1869. Sacramento State University is located here.
The city is home to the Sacramento Kings of the National Basketball
Association, and the Sacramento River Cats, a farm club of the
American League’s Oakland Athletics and one of the most successful
minor league baseball franchises.
California Zephyr Route Guide 9
Sacramento is at the confluence of the American River that we cross
prior to arrival, and the Sacramento River that we cross after departing.
We pass “Old Town” and the California State Railroad Museum on the
left after departing.
The station stop in Sacramento also serves the routes of the Amtrak
Capitol Corridor and Coast Starlight®.
DAVIS (2367 mi.) The long, low trestle we cross marks the “Yolo
Bypass”, a flood plain meant to divert flood waters away from
Sacramento. The 1913 adobe-style Davis station is an historic
landmark. This city is home to UC Davis, the largest campus in the
University of California system that in 2012 was ranked as the
“greenest” college campus in the U.S. by the Sierra Club magazine.
Rather than cars, 20,000 bicycles are the primary transportation mode
to, from and around campus. Indeed the motto of the City of Davis is
“Most Bicycle-Friendly Town in the World.”
Suisun Bay (2408 mi.) (Pronounced “soo-soon”) The “Mothball Fleet,”
consisting of World War II ships that have been stored for years, can be
seen off to the left as our train crosses the Carquinez Strait Bridge. The
large peak to the left is Mount Diablo (3,849 feet).
MARTINEZ (2411 mi.) From a trading post in 1849 to a flourishing
town in 1876, Martinez became a hub for the gold and shipping
industries. Although there are many competing claims, the town likes to
claim the invention of the martini; a plaque commemorating the event
is on a downtown corner. The most prominent Martinez native was Joe
DiMaggio, a local legend with the Pacific Coast League
San Francisco Seals before going on to baseball stardom with the New
York YankeesTM. (Younger readers of this route guide may recognize him
better as pitchman for “Mr. Coffee®.”) Martinez is the transfer point to
the Amtrak San Joaquin®.
The train skirts the shore of San Pablo Bay and then the San Francisco
Bay as we cover the final miles of our journey. The Bay Area Rapid
Transit (BART) trains can be seen on the left as we approach the next
to last station, RICHMOND (2430 mi.). Passing through Berkeley
(2436 mi.), the San Francisco skyline and Golden Gate Bridge can be
seen to the right across the bay.
EMERYVILLE (2438 mi.) is a small city of less than one square
mile located just north of the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge, and
the end of the rail trip across the west. Major redevelopment in the
1980s and 1990s transformed this former industrial city into a mixed
use urban center with retail, entertainment and business centers, as
well as condominiums, parks and recreation trails. It’s home to Pixar®
Animation Studios and several biotech and software companies.
At Emeryville, passengers en route to San Francisco will board Amtrak
Thruway buses that operate to several stops in San Francisco. The bus
crosses the San Francisco bay on the San Francisco/Oakland Bay Bridge
which spans 8.4 miles some 200 feet above the water. Opened in 1936,
it carries approximately 280,000 vehicles per day. Watch for spectacular
views of San Francisco, Alcatraz Island and the Golden Gate Bridge.
Connecting the two halves of the bridge is the 539-ft. long Yerba Buena
Tunnel, the largest diameter tunnel in the world in 1936. The bridge
underwent major repairs and retrofitting after it was damaged in the
Loma Prieta (World Series) Earthquake in 1989.
SAN FRANCISCO (2447 mi.) Almost everybody who visits San
Francisco, the City by the Bay, is captured by its charms. The city grew
25-fold in 1849 after the discovery of gold at Sutter’s Mill the year
before, and has just kept growing and becoming more attractive. Today,
this popular international tourist destination is renowned for its steep
hills, famous landmarks, Alcatraz Island, Coit Tower, cable cars and
Chinatown as well as for its diverse cosmopolitan population lending
unmatched charm and character to the city. While early entrepreneurs
capitalized on gold wealth to benefit banking, railroads and trade, the
modern era saw the rise of the “Beat” and “Hippie” generations that
crystallized the progressive political nature of the population unlike
elsewhere in the U.S. Its world famous galleries, restaurants and shops
share top billing with Fisherman’s Wharf and the financial district to
lure vacation travelers from all over the globe. In the city where Tony
Bennett left his heart, small businesses with fewer than ten employees
make up 85 percent of city establishments. And in a city where the
49ers won five consecutive Super Bowls, its residents have been judged
the fittest in the U.S.
Thanks for traveling here on the Amtrak California Zephyr.
